Priceless Paintings from W7

This is a severe case of racism towards the animal kingdom, and I confess: I, myself, am the Hitler here:

I confess that I have always spurned Emus, solely on grounds of their ugliness. I simply never gave this species much attention, because I never found them particularly nice to look at.  

Their 2-inch black eyes didn’t count, neither did their strong legs. I wasn’t interested in their family life (the male tends the eggs and raises the chicks, while ‘she’ buggers off as soon as the eggs are laid).

They are just ugly animals, and, in a zoo, I quickly move on to the prettier ones.

It took a trip half-way around this planet –and back-, to change my views on Emus.

An Emu are still ugly in a way, make no mistake. But, the whole ruffed ugliness makes much more sense, now that I’ve seen them in their natural habitat. In the undergrowth of gum trees (a.k.a. Eucalyptus trees), their camouflage is simply perfect. Two steps away, and you can’t see them unless they move.

Still ugly, but in a good way.

Out and About, Thoughts australia

We are used to the occasional sight of a deer in our part of the world, or similar animal. As soon as they notice us, they disappear.

One thing we enjoyed a lot in South Australia is that this isn’t always the case there. Apart from nosy birds begging from food, there were also several cases of very close encounters with Kangaroos and Emus in particular, which weren’t bothered or interested in us at all.

A simple case of peaceful coexistence, how nice. One morning, we had breakfast just outside out tent, and right next to us, a pair of Kangaroos also nibbled away on their breakfast. We met Emus at very close distance, and even shared a track with an Emu dad and his eight chicks once.

Most other animals escaped quickly (or felt safe, such as Koalas 20m up in a tree, or seals sleeping on an inaccessible rock), but the experience of some that were simply there – that was quite some experience. Probably the nicest single aspect of the whole trip.

Out and About, Travel australia

So, we went to Australia for holidays, and back. While the Missus stays on for a little longer for work, I have returned a week ago. What can I say in a few words?

It’s a 30-hour pain in the back to get there, and the same thing back. ‘There’ being Adelaide in the state of South Australia. Nice town, and nice to see our friend there.

As far as towns go, Adelaide is pretty much all that South Australia has to offer. Leave Adelaide, and all you find are comparatively tiny towns, far apart, all sharing the same sense of perpetual dust, dryness and remoteness.

In culinary terms, we’d be in for a disappointment, if we hadn’t known it from our previous visit to Australia: instead of benefitting from the best of the old and the new world, from the Indian sub-continent, Indonesia and south-east Asia, Australia, on a whole, seems to have opted for the least common denominator. Fish and Chips and Steaks and Chips are abundant, and everything else is rare and far between.

Just as well that we came for a nature experience more than for a culinary one. True wildlife spottings (i.e., not in a zoo or sanctuary), include Fur Seals, Sea Lions, Opossums, Wallabies, Kangaroos, tailless lizards, Monitor Lizards, Koalas, Emus, Goats, Rabbits, Dolphins, a snake, and an ever-present, colourful and abundant bird life with Pelicans, Rosallas and a selection of other parakeets (including the beautiful ring-necked green ones depicted here), all kinds of sea birds, Oyster Catchers, … you name it.

Oh, and black swans, too.

You can see all 916 photos right here, but don’t worry. There’s also a tiny 64 image selection for a quick impression.

Out and About, Travel australia

Back in June, I told you about my odyssey finding some workable and reliable walking boots. I ended up buying Scarpa Mistral GTX, and fell in love immediately.

I also own a pair of walking shoes for more light-weight, day-in day-out walking. I use them almost every day, but my current pair of Brasher only just gave their money’s worth: the sole is already falling apart, the cap and other parts of the surface are breaking up. While they are still usable, the end of their life is near and foreseeable.

This time, I went straight in for Scarpa, didn’t even look at the alternatives, and bought a pair of Scarpa Meridian GTX. (Why the GTX? Don’t ask for the sense in marketing…) Although I only walked them for less than 2 miles so far, I am already in love – it is now a love triangle between the boots, the shoes and myself.

Oh, and the laptop, the tablet PC, the Le Creuset frying pan, the Neff ovens, oh, and the wife. That’s a different story though.

Seriously, these shoes are a perfect fit, and look and feel like they would be up for the job. Time will show.

Out and About, Thoughts hiking, karrimor, north face, scarpa

Here’s an excellent example how not to write a guidebook: John Macadam’s recently released official National Trail Guide to the South West Cost Path from Padstow to Falmouth (amazon) – yes, the exact book that covers the stretch we walked recently.

Much rambling, some background information, and close to nothing in terms of guidance is provided. While most of the path is well marked and the basics are simple (keep the water to your left when walking east to west), some sections are tricky. Finding the way out of town, or finding the right path amid a network of paths crossing the dunes, for example, can be tricky. This is where one likes consulting a guidebook, but this one fails to come to the rescue.

Since the map for each walk is spread over multiple pages, it is often difficult to judge the current position relative to the walk. Little hints like “you’ve reached the half-way point,”  “better don’t take lunch just yet. There’s a steep climb ahead and a brilliant Cafe in the next bay” or similar information of that nature is the kind of stuff I look for in a guide book.

I recall at least one occasion (which I fail to find and quote now), he talks about a nature feature or historic aspect, and then proceeds discussing the next feature or historic aspect, ignoring the 6 mile distance between the two.

A good thing each of the guidebooks which cover the entire path between them is written by a different author. Or maybe they should have sought someone who knows how to write a guidebook and given the job to that person. Oh, never mind.

Yes, you should be walking the South West Cost Path. Its brilliant. No, you should not be buying this book. Its a waste of money. Take your common sense instead, and an OS map, and you’ll be fine. 

Books, Out and About Books, coast path, cornwall, hiking

I tore my trusted Karrimor walking boots some while ago (in Borneo), so when we planned for the coastal path hike, I went and bought some new ones.

I bought a pair of Karrimor KSB Tour Event, and wore them for just one short weekend in the open – broken. Eyelets have torn out, obviously poorly designed and manufactured. I returned the boots and, after a couple of days, Karrimor acknowledged the problem and authorised a refund. Nice.

Next, I went and bought some North Face Cedar Ridge instead. I loved the Cedar Ridge because they were so wonderfully comfortable, but after only one day of wearing around the shops, eyelets tore out. Again! There wasn’t even a trace of stitching or glue on the torn-out pull strap; God knows how this was supposed to last. Same deal again: return to store, they return to manufacturer, they acknowledge fault and authorise refund. Nice.

Next, I went and bought some Scarpa Mistral GTX, and felt at home in those shoes immediately. I wore them for a few hours before we started our trip and was a bit concerned given how little experience I had with those shoes prior to the trip. But, all was well, and Scarpa’s my friend. Definitely. They have the perfect fit, are lightweight, and show absolutely no sign of falling apart. Just as one would expect from a £100 pair of shoes, they’re good shoes.

Out and About, Thoughts hiking, karrimor, north face, scarpa

Over three days hiking the Cornish costal path, with plenty of sunshine, more than plenty of wind, and not a drop of rain, how’s that?

We took the train from Paddington to Newquay, a smooth and quick connection. Upon arrival, we found that town councillors ruined the town of Newquay pretty much with concrete and the omnipresent “amusement arcade;” it could be a lovely place otherwise.

Onwards, along the south-west coast path to Perranporth (20km up and down and, in parts, through loose sands), then to Portreath (another 20km piece, less loose sands but a few more steep descents all the way down to sea level and back up to the top of the cliffs again), then to Hayle (again a 20km section with mixed environment: dunes, beach, cliff tops – nice).

Then just a 90 minute walk to St. Erth station, following our Sunday breakfast, hop back on the train to Paddington, and back in just under six hours, just in time to do some shopping and prepare supper. Perfect.

Some pictures are right here.

Out and About, Travel coast path, cornwall, hiking

Serious questions – what are those?

(You can click the image for a larger version)

We found them attached to a log, sitting on a Welsh beach at low tide. At first glance, we thought mussels, but on second glance we were no longer so sure: First, each shell is attached to the log with a leathery, maybe 5mm thick, life line. Second, the shells open and some gill-like tentacles come out. It wasn’t clear wether these breathe – although they looked like gills, I find it more likely that they normally fish for microbes when submerged under water, and just kept moving out of some irresistible instinct.

Any intelligent guesses -or hard facts- will be most gratefully received.

Out and About Wales;

With a slight struggle due to illness, we took off to our long-planned week of cycling in Wales, right on the very tip of the beautiful Gower peninsular.

Two out of four people in our company being hampered by illness is one thing. Pretty strong winds is another, and severe downpours pretty much all the time is another. So, one thing leading to another, I think we managed to cycle approximately 5 miles in total, got wet at several occasions, drove around the Gower and got depressed in Swansea town, until we decided to call it a day -or a week as it were- and return home early.

Now we are enjoying only slightly better weather, but at least do so from the comfort of our own homes.

This was our second attempt on Wales. I feel it might be some while until I can face it for its third and last chance.

Out and About Swansea;, Wales;

Not everyone will have the time to view all 532 photos taken during our trip to  Brittany, so I extracted a subset of 91.

You can see the 91 public ones online on Flickr here. You can also log on to Flickr and register as a friend or family member to get access to the full collection – it’s worth it; very few of the 532 photos are not good and most are excellent.

A had tip, a shoulder clap and a kiss for the good wife, who shot almost all as always.

Out and About Brittany, France

I can't quite see myself spending my last day of holidays in front of the computer, so here's just a quick word to say that we returned happy and healthy from beautiful Brittany. We cycled 400m (660km to be precise and metric) -Brittany is larger than we thought- up and down Brittany's many hills -the thing is also hillier than we thought. No rain at all, lots of sunshine but often chilly evenings, no puncture, no accident. We could have not asked for more.

We are now fit to tackle just about every mountain, and have started our battle with the mountain of dirty washing today.

Recent photos and more tour details to follow. G'day.

Out and About

By pure chance, we decided to go and visit the London Assembly Hall on one of its open days. Apparently, it is open to visitors one weekend each month, and we just happened to pick one of those.

What a brilliant site. The building looks slightly crooked from the outside, but it fascinatingly twisted, bended, torn and shifted once you are inside, and make your way down the giant spiral staircase from the 9th floor all the way to the assembly hall on the ground floor.

A modern architectural delight, and a must-see for all amateur photographers. Almost every visitor was excited about the ever-changing, and ever so bended and twisted views. It is so nice to see a modern steel and glass building bringing out so much artistic inspiration in its visitors, and for those who might be more technically inclined, visiting the building provides an excellent opportunity to marvel at modern engineering.

Highly recommended local sight. The London Assembly Hall. Some of the good wife’s pictures are available on Flickr.

Out and About City Hall, london, London Assembly, London Assembly Hall, Norman Foster;, steel;

Turns out that my favourite State park in California’s South Bay area, the Henry Coe State Park (the largest Californian State Park), is under thread of closure due to budget cuts.

I went there as soon as I heard about this, and inquired. I also did a very nice walk to Frog Lake (if you ever do this hike, walk half way around the lake and sit on the fallen tree. It’s one of the most peaceful spots in the world), then back via Middle Ridge.

Anyway… The rangers were very pleased that someone showed an interest, but no, they don’t have a petition to sign or any other form of activity going, not even information on site on this subject.

Seems like they will be waiting until decisions are firm, also know as it being too late. Is this stupid or what?

I wrote a letter to the San Jose Mercury News; maybe it gets published. Not about their lethargy but about the closure plans of course.

Out and About, Thoughts california, Californian State Park, Frog Lake, Henry Coe, Henry Coe State Park, Lethargy, Mercury News, San Jose Mercury News;, South Bay;, State park;

Finally.

I am happy to report that our Borneo photos have finally made it to the relative digital safety of Flickr. Out of slightly over 800 photos, the wife selected 507 from which she couldn’t possibly part.

If you are registered with Flickr as a friend or family member, you can see all 507. Everybody else will be pleased to hear that I created a subset of around 100 photos, which are now available for public viewing.

Enjoy! http://www.flickr.com/photos/w7/sets/72157603802113280/

Out and About

The last days on Sabah. We spent as much of day 9 on Manukan Island, and made sure to bring a sunburn home. Always a nice thing to have in early December. A quick return trip to Kota Kinabalu by boat, a restaurant meal and some farewell booze in the evening.

We had most of day 10 to spend in Kota Kinabalu, as the flight was scheduled for the early evening hours. The wife and I went to the Sabah Museum, a nice, large and modern place trying to show all aspects of past and modern life in Sabah in a bit of a hotchpotch collection, followed by the successful purchase of the new cleavers, lunch at the fish market (sea food noodle soup, RM 0.30), the purchase of many gifts and more spices for more Rendang.

Also fell into an uncovered manhole and cut my shin, but thanks to a very friendly and helpful crowd we managed to find a nearby ambulance, who could clean and dress the wound immediately, so no infections occurred.

For most of the trip we have been with the group almost all the time, so in a way, that last day of shopping in Kota Kinabalu was our best experience with the local people. As said before, we were absolutely delighted to see how very friendly people were. Helpful, friendly, but no pressure, no hard selling, no pestering. Most enjoyable.

What follows is the not quite so enjoyable 2 1/2 hours flight back to Kuala Lumpur, followed by a 13 hours flight to London, but you know what? I’ll be happy to sit through this very long flight once more, especially when travelling with the superb Malaysian Airways, in order to visit Malaysia once more.

Out and About Kuala Lumpur, london, Malaysia, Malaysian Airways, Manukan Island, sunburn;